Fallingwater

Fallingwater (the name Frank Lloyd Wright gave the house and the Kaufmann family called “Bear Run”) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the “20th-Century Architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright.” To have a place of such significance located approximately 90 minutes south of Pittsburgh is quite special as it is only one of two in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania with this designation (the other is Independence Hall in Philadelphia).

It’s been nearly one week since I visited Fallingwater, and I’m finally writing my experience. I’ve been processing my visit of not just the house but also the grounds. It’s a place that compelled me to receive and appreciate its calming yet invigorating energy. The essence of the place remained with me long after I left. It’s still with me; I can’t get the house and the grounds out of my head or heart!

When I visit historical places, such as the Colosseum in Rome, I feel the “oldness” of it, and those feelings are inextricably tied to my memories. When visiting human-created places that have existed for centuries, I’m convinced the energies of previous sentient beings are infused and linger within the stones, marble, and very earth we walk. For such a young place, I was surprised to feel the energies of its former owners and visitors appreciating our appreciation. I think it says a lot about how much this place meant to the family and the people in their circle.

I opted for the 4pm in-depth tour because I was not getting up extra early for the 8:30am or 8:45am options. I also opted out of going to the gym that day because, despite rain in the forecast, I planned for a Fallingwater day: eat at the café, shop the museum, and walk the grounds.

Despite reading the “Visitor Tips” section of the website thoroughly, I didn’t appreciate the temperature difference between the city and the rural area of Mill Run until I arrived there…and felt the cold! The on-off rain also made it feel colder, which prompted the purchase of a logo imprinted fleece. Everything about the Fallingwater experience is outdoors, so plan accordingly!

I’ve had a little difficulty logically processing this lingering of feelings for Fallingwater because, again, it is a modern structure (construction began in 1936 and was completed in 1939) built for a family. Upon reflection, I think it was walking the grounds prior to my tour at my own leisurely pace that helped build this connection.

The magic of Fallingwater happens before the house tour. The visitor’s center, designed by Edgar jr.’s partner, Paul Mayén, is a covered, open area that has a series of “pods” situated in a circular pattern connected to the information booth and visitor seating at its heart. The pods include the café, shop, gallery, employee-only area, and restrooms. There is a walkway that leads to the house, another that connects to the parking lot, and another that leads to the walking paths.

I spent a lot of time at the center, breathing in the crisp air, chatting with the staff, and taking a quick “nap” before my tour.

While the house is special because of its architect, it’s also special because of its original owners, the Kaufmann family of Edgar Sr., Liliane, and their son, Edgar jr. This is the family of the department store fame and fortune. Their sense of style, love of art, education, history, linguistic abilities, and love of nature come together in the interior furnishings and collections. For example, in the main living room and dining area, the house was built around a huge boulder that juts into it and down to the snug basement, because nature was not to be destroyed to build the house.

The hearth of Fallingwater. The red kettle hangs on a hinge that warms up whatever beverage is inside within the hearth.

Fallingwater is a place that begs to be experienced, not read about in books, magazines, or blog posts. There were moments of bright sunshine in between the rain (and sometimes out-right downpours), making the water droplets on the house and surrounding area glisten like diamonds. In those moments of bright sunshine, it felt like the Kaufmann family was showing appreciation to us visitors in keeping their weekend home (and their legacy) alive.

There was a person in the tour group ahead of mine who flew from New Zealand that day (or the day prior, actually) just to see the house. In that case, there’s no excuse for anyone to not visit!

A few points:

• I didn’t have cellular service once I turned onto the driveway. Visiting Fallingwater is a great digital detoxing experience.

• Follow the driving directions as posted on the Fallingwater website. Write it down ahead of time because cellular service is spotty (and at some points in the route, non-existent) as per the first bullet point.

• The walking paths are graveled with small stones. The house has stone floors, and the stairs are narrow with some uneven levels. I wore my ON city walking shoes, which are quite comfortable – and suitable for city walking. For my next visit, I’ll be wearing the waterproof hiking version.

• I visited in early May, and it was cold. In some years, it could have been super-hot. Dress in layers and include a fleece just in case (unless you want a Fallingwater logo fleece or hoodie).

I know I’ll be returning to Fallingwater again. There’s a sense of peace and tranquility there that I haven’t experienced in a long time and didn’t realize I missed. I completely understand why the Kaufmanns chose that spot, that waterfall, upon which to have their weekend home built.

How many UNESCO sites have you visited? What locations imprinted themselves onto your heart?